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by Daniel Stratton
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This article is a walkthrough for people who are interested in modifying their controller to rumble more effectively. I used a Sharkpad Pro, simply because the prongs on this thing are huge! I was able to easily fit the electric motor from the Rumble Pak into the center prong. You might be able to use other controllers; however, there just isn't any room inside the stock Nintendo controllers.
Things you will need:
* You may be able to use similar products from competitors. However, I have only used these. The main issue with the controller is the available space inside of it.
+ You might want some other cutting tools such as a dremel. I used a drill for all of my case-modifying purposes, but this probably wasn't very safe.
 Figure 1: Modification of Rumble Pak |
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My technique was to drill out the plastic surrounding each of the screws. If you can find any other way, do it! If you use my method, there is a good possibility that you will damage the connectors that plug into the Controller Pak slot. If you use my method, do so VERY carefully.
Once you have it open, it is a simple matter to disconnect the motor from the board; Nintendo gave you a nice little plug. Remove the motor and set it aside for later.
Next, very carefully bend the female plug end that is attached to the board until it stands straight up.
Now you have to make a hole in the side of the Rumble Pak casing that will
allow the female end to stick out of the case. Set the board back where it should
sit and make note of where the female end runs into the case -- this is where you
want to make your hole. Once again, I used the drill and a small bit. Through trial
and error try to cut the hole to the size of the plug. Once the hole is cut, simply
place the board in place with the plug sticking out of the side (see figure 1). You
can now glue the casing back together and the pak itself is done.
 Figure 2: Connection for wires |
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Step Two: Modifying the Controller Case
To modify the case, you need to first open it up. This is a simple matter of
removing a few screws. Once you have it open, you might want to set aside the L and R
buttons because they have a tendency to fall out when you aren't paying attention.
There are three modifications you need to make to the casing: removing the screw pegs in the center console, drilling a hole for the motor wires to exit the case, and cutting out part of the Memory Pak holder (see figure 2).
You need to remove the screw pegs in the center prong of the controller to make room for the Rumble Pak motor. The plastic in the Sharkpad is pretty hard, so all you really need is a pair of pliers to break the screw pegs. (I tried drilling them out, but they just shattered.) Do it bit-by-bit. The pliers should shatter the hard plastic. Don't try to just rip the pegs out. (I say this because I'm not completely sure what would happen.) A dremel might be a better tool for this job.
You'll have to cut a hole at the base of the Controller Pak holder (the little
tower on the bottom of the controller that the pak plugs into) so that the wires
from motor can exit the controller casing. The hole only needs to be big enough for
the two little wires connected to the motor. Want to guess what I used? That's right,
the drill!
 Figure 3: Back of the controller |
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Making a notch in the Controller Pak holder is vital. Otherwise, the Rumble Pak will no longer fit in the controller with that little plug sticking out. You also would not be able to connect the motor to the Rumble Pak. All right, class, what did I use to make this notch? Yep, that's right. What I did was use the side of the drill bit to cut away at the plastic like a burr would. Again, a dremel would have been nice. If you do this correctly, it shouldn't affect the little lock thingie that holds the paks in (see figure 3).
Final Step: Installing the Motor
Before you actually install the motor into the handle of the controller, you
need to lengthen the wires attached to the motor. If you don't, the wires won't
reach out of the case and up to the Rumble Pak. First, cut both wires halfway
between the motor and the plug. Strip about a quarter of an inch of the plastic
from the end of each of the wires. Then take the two 2-3 inch pieces of wire
(mentioned on the supplies list) and do the same to them. Take one of these wires
and connect it to the black wire coming from the battery. Then do the same with your
other extra piece and the red wire. Wrap each of the new connections individually
with electricians tape, and then wrap them together.
NOW STOP! Before you do the same to the other end and the plug, remember
that you have to get the wires through that little hole at the base of the Controller
Pak casing. Stick the wires through, and then re-attach the plug with the wires.
This is one of the easiest parts to the whole thing. Find where the motor
will have to sit. I put mine in with the rumbler oriented horizontally; however, you
may want to try it with the motor on its side. Who knows, it might make a difference
in how it feels. The most important thing here is to make sure that your placement
doesn't interfere with the analog Control Stick innards.
 Figure 4: Close look at the rumbler |
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This is important: Once it is in place, you encase that sucker in hot glue. Of course, make sure that the glue won't interfere with the movement of the rumbler or with the analog stick innards. But you want to make sure that when the glue dries, the rumbler is firmly in place so that all of the vibration is transferred to the controller and that the motor isn't just rattling around inside the handle. Once the glue dries, you can screw the controller back together (don't forget those L and R buttons!), and if you want, glue the center prong on the handle together with super glue. I didn't bother with that, though, since it makes it hard to get back in. And with all of the other screws, the controller is held together well enough.
Once you have it closed up you can insert the battery holder (formerly known as the Rumble Pak) for your "Rumble Controller," plug the motor in, and play away!
Interesting Notes
I am currently trying to find a way to contain everything needed for the
Rumble Pak inside of the controller. This means the electrical board, batteries,
motor -- everything. Like I said, there's a lot of room in those Sharkpads.
I have also found a way to boost the Rumble Pak's strength. If you connect a 9-volt battery to the battery connections instead of the usual AAA batteries, the difference is tremendous! However, I believe that this will shorten the life of the Rumble Pak's components markedly.
I hope you enjoy this. I think it conveys the vibration much better than the Rumble Pak, and just between you and me, I think I'm gonna give that 9-volt battery a try and see how long it lasts. If the motor doesn't die within a year while using a 9-volt, I'll start doing it with all of my "Rumble Controllers."
If you have any comments or questions feel free to write me, Daniel Stratton, at volkswagen@mcn.net.